Founder Mr Cheng Wen-chiang, born of Sichuan heritage, opened Wang Cheng Laoma in 1988 in a quiet lane on Yanji Street, Taipei. With a focus on “home-style cooking,” the restaurant was modest in setting but unmistakable in flavour, quickly earning a loyal following among the entertainment and media circles centred around the nearby CTS broadcasting district.
While developing a staff meal, Mr Cheng could not bear to discard the trimmed-off tops of garlic chives and tried stir-frying them on high heat with fermented black beans, minced pork and chilli. The dish was first served only to staff, but it proved so addictive over rice that it was added to the menu. Because the dark fermented beans resembled flies, Mr Cheng half-jokingly named it “Fly Head.” Against all expectations, the dish swept the island and has since become a staple at virtually every Sichuan restaurant in Taiwan.
Despite an intensely competitive Taipei dining scene, Wang Cheng Laoma has held to its small-shop character and authentic flavours. In early 2024 the kitchen continues to develop new dishes (such as Spicy Fragrant Crispy Pork), retaining its quiet influence with longtime regulars and a new generation of guests alike.
